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Post by shredder4286 on Feb 13, 2017 23:41:15 GMT -5
I read a bunch the other day about all the dofferent6cable slides. Good grief - any item in the world has 10 bad reviews if you look enough. I ended up buying an AAE slippery slide because it looked solid and had good reviews. I like the Saunders, which I had before, but I suppose there is a chance for failure with all the small, thin parts. I do realize many people have put 1,000s of shots on Saunders and never had a problem. I just figured if the slippy slide is good, go with that and call it a day.
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Post by p on Feb 14, 2017 9:48:27 GMT -5
I read a bunch the other day about all the dofferent6cable slides. Good grief - any item in the world has 10 bad reviews if you look enough. I ended up buying an AAE slippery slide because it looked solid and had good reviews. I like the Saunders, which I had before, but I suppose there is a chance for failure with all the small, thin parts. I do realize many people have put 1,000s of shots on Saunders and never had a problem. I just figured if the slippy slide is good, go with that and call it a day. Next set of strings just get the cables served where they run through the slide and forget about them. No more wax build up, no wear, no worries. I won't buy another set without.
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Post by shredder4286 on Feb 14, 2017 10:51:35 GMT -5
Yes, I've seen where a lot of people are doing that now to mitigate cable wear. Seems like a weird thing to do to your cables, but apparently it works
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Post by trial153 on Feb 14, 2017 14:06:38 GMT -5
I put the PSE slide on my spirit. It's picking up wax on the closest roller. It's smooth as could be and seemed very quite on the shot. I had to move my cable guard from the 430 position to the 2 position to get clearance. I also can pull the rear cable off the slide, if I try to. I am not sure how I feel about that ..kind of worried it can come off post shot or if I got it hung up on anything. I think I am being crazy though. In all honesty I don't think the PSE slide is any smoother then then Saunders however it is more robust.
My plan is put the Saunders back on my spirt for two reasons. I don't like the way the PSE sucks the wax off the string and I can move the cable guard back to my original position. I haven't retuned this bow since Ex Wolverine built this string set. It has good mojo so I am leaving it also.
I am going to put the PSE slide on the new GX2, it has serving on the cables and I don't have to reposition the rod. The stock slide on the new breed didn't impress me at all. It seemed to grab on the draw. The PSE slide or the Saunders are much smoother on it.
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Post by shredder4286 on Feb 15, 2017 9:38:37 GMT -5
Seems some bow companies need to put a decent slide on to begin with.
Question- When you adjust for clearance- is this at brace or full draw?
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Post by shredder4286 on Feb 17, 2017 16:11:27 GMT -5
So, I went through the whole process of making sure timing/sync was good on cams, DL/DW setting etc. Today I had some time to paper tune, so I figured I would see how it did. I got a low/left tear that won't go away. I checked for cable clearance,changed my grip, checked for face contact, moved rest both directions, adjusted the cable slide rod and maybe even said a few magical cusswords, but no dice. (I also fired a bareshaft & flecthed and had BS hitting to the right a couple inches) This is the part that really ruins archery for me sometimes. You get a brand new bow, and lose confidence in your ability to shoot it well instantly when you go to paper tune. Draw weight is 65.5#, 28" draw length, arrows are 350 spine cut @ 27" with a 42 grain insert and 100 grain head. What could I be missing so far?
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Post by killermidget on Feb 17, 2017 17:20:19 GMT -5
If the magical cuss words didn't work then you are in serious trouble......
How bad is the low left year?
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Post by shredder4286 on Feb 17, 2017 19:45:51 GMT -5
It's low 3/8", left about 1"
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Post by killermidget on Feb 17, 2017 19:48:46 GMT -5
It's low 3/8", left about 1" Moving the rest had zero effect?
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Post by shredder4286 on Feb 17, 2017 19:55:52 GMT -5
It's low 3/8", left about 1" Moving the rest had zero effect? Pretty much. I'm kind of bewildered at my unique and outstanding ability to not paper tune: D
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Post by tsm213 on Feb 17, 2017 20:04:04 GMT -5
Moving the rest had zero effect? Pretty much. I'm kind of bewildered at my unique and outstanding ability to not paper tune: D If it's not your grip maybe it's something else you do. Release hand position or something? Or the way the dloop comes off the release?
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Post by p on Feb 17, 2017 21:32:18 GMT -5
Here's what I do. Set your arrow square to the string and center shot at 7/8" to start. Nock an arrow and then lay another arrow against the shelf. The two shafts should be parallel. If not, move your rest until both arrows are lined up.
Once that is done, move your cable guard so it's at about 4:30 when looking from the rear. Try shooting through paper and experiment with different positions on the cable rod to eliminate the bad tears. It only takes a little movement to make a difference. It's kinda like yoke tuning with no yoke.
If that doesn't work try adding more thumb pressure to the grip. Like point your thumb forward towards the target not out to the right.
If none of this helps you'll need to learn some new cuss words.
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Post by shredder4286 on Feb 17, 2017 21:41:56 GMT -5
Here's what I do. Set your arrow square to the string and center shot at 7/8" to start. Nock an arrow and then lay another arrow against the shelf. The two shafts should be parallel. If not, move your rest until both arrows are lined up. Once that is done, move your cable guard so it's at about 4:30 when looking from the rear. Try shooting through paper and experiment with different positions on the cable rod to eliminate the bad tears. It only takes a little movement to make a difference. It's kinda like yoke tuning with no yoke. If that doesn't work try adding more thumb pressure to the grip. Like point your thumb forward towards the target not out to the right. If none of this helps you'll need to learn some new cuss words. Haha Will try this tomorrow. Appreciate your help
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Post by killermidget on Feb 18, 2017 13:01:35 GMT -5
Does anyone still use a laser to start their setup?
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Post by p on Feb 18, 2017 13:24:16 GMT -5
Does anyone still use a laser to start their setup? I never bought one. I usually just eye ball it or do the 2nd shaft against the shelf deal to start off with.
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Post by shredder4286 on Feb 24, 2017 15:10:30 GMT -5
Got a bullethole today, but had to move the rest waaay right. What's weird is the slide rod seemed to have no effect
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Post by killermidget on Feb 24, 2017 15:16:00 GMT -5
Got a bullethole today, but had to move the rest waaay right. What's weird is the slide rod seemed to have no effect Has moving the rest to the right brought on any vane clearance issue?
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Post by shredder4286 on Feb 24, 2017 16:24:28 GMT -5
Got a bullethole today, but had to move the rest waaay right. What's weird is the slide rod seemed to have no effect Has moving the rest to the right brought on any vane clearance issue? I didnt check for vane clearance after getting a bullethole thru paper. I know what you mean though, seems that like might happen, but the cable rod is at 4:30, So IT'S outta the way. If the canes are hitting the shelf or rest, I dunno. All I know is for now I got a bullethole, and I have to enjoy that for a moment
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Post by killermidget on Feb 24, 2017 16:25:36 GMT -5
👍
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Post by killermidget on Feb 24, 2017 16:49:27 GMT -5
Has moving the rest to the right brought on any vane clearance issue? I didnt check for vane clearance after getting a bullethole thru paper. I know what you mean though, seems that like might happen, but the cable rod is at 4:30, So IT'S outta the way. If the canes are hitting the shelf or rest, I dunno. All I know is for now I got a bullethole, and I have to enjoy that for a moment I doubt you could get a bullet hole if you are having vane/ riser/cable contact. But I was curious if you are going to have to be wary of which vanes you can use.
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